Some More Summer Cocktails

Hello everyone – It's been a while since I posted anything here. The combination of a temporary job doing some physically demanding work, time spent writing fiction, and the summer heat wave has kept me away from the blog. Also, the heat here in NY has us drinking more gin & tonics or cold beers than anything particularly interesting.

I'm quite sure that a lot can be written about mixing a gin and tonic, and I may just pursue that subject some day. Today, though, I'm just going to throw a few more refreshing summer cocktail recipes your way.

Tara's favorite lately is the Pink Lady, an old drink very similar to the Clover Club cocktail. The Pink Lady adds some applejack to the recipe, resulting in a slightly boozier, tastier drink.

Pink Lady
¾ oz. fresh-squeezed lemon juice
½ oz. real pomegranate grenadine
1 ½ oz. gin
½ oz. applejack
½ egg white

Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. It doesn't need a garnish, but a cherry wouldn't be out of place.

I make my own grenadine by shaking equal parts pomegranate juice and sugar together until the sugar dissolves, then adding two or three ounces of pomegranate molasses to each cup of pomegranate syrup. It's far, far better than any commercial grenadine I've tried, but if you prefer to buy your grenadine, Small Hands Foods, Sonoma Syrup Company and Stirrings all make real pomegranate grenadine. Please avoid the nasty, chemical-laden red sugar water on the shelf at your local supermarket, as it will spoil any cocktail you put it in.

My sipper of choice lately has been something I call the McGee, after Travis McGee, the beach-bum/knight errant hero of John D. MacDonald's series of novels. These books are some of the greatest detective stories ever written, and McGee emerges as one of the truly great characters in all literature. If you haven't read them, do so. If you have, read them again.

McGee is a gin man, and the original version of the McGee cocktail was simply Boodles gin on the rocks, served in an old fashioned glass. Now, this isn't a cocktail, or even a mixed drink, but it is pretty much a modern Martini served on the rocks rather than up. Since I personally want the Martini to regain it's place as a specific drink, I've taken to calling my version a McGee instead.

In keeping with the lore in the books, you can rinse the ice in the glass with sherry or vermouth, dumping the excess before filling with gin. Stick with Boodles, which McGee drank for much of the series, or Plymouth, although McGee seemed to only drink from his stash of old-style Plymouth and had some unkind things to say about the current formulation. Well, current circa-1980-something, anyway.

My preferred McGee goes like this: Fill a rocks glass with large ice cubes, add a splash of Noilly Prat dry vermouth and a dash of Regan's orange bitters, swirl to coat the ice and glass and dump the excess. Add a good amount of Boodles gin, stir to chill and sip. Ahh...

Obviously, you need to love whatever gin you're going to use in a McGee. Happily, Boodles is both my favorite London dry gin and accurate to the books, but feel free to use your own favorite if Boodles doesn't do it for you. Maybe, if everyone starts calling a gin-with-little-to-no-vermouth a McGee instead of a Martini, it will help nudge the Martini back towards being a specific drink, rather than a catch-all term for a mixed drink served up in a stemmed glass...

I'll stop here, since I'm also working on a future post detailing the history of the Martini. My apologies for the lack of photos this time around, I'll try to get back in the swing of taking pictures for next time.

The Gall Bracer Cocktail...

...and the importance of using real pomegranate grenadine.

To say I’m a fan of the Old Fashioned cocktail is probably putting it a little mildly. A properly made Old Fashioned is a thing of beauty, and probably the closest to perfection that one can achieve in a libation. I drink enough of them that there’s no need to measure anything when I’m making one at home. I know my glass well enough to eyeball the ingredients and get an identical drink every time.

Since I appreciate this drink so much, I usually notice cocktails that are close relatives to the Old Fashioned. The Gall Bracer is one of these drinks – In fact, it’s only one ingredient away from being an Old Fashioned…

The Gall Bracer Cocktail

2 oz. bourbon or rye

1 barspoon simple syrup

dash Angostura bitters

2 dashes grenadine

Stir with ice & strain into an ice-filled old fashioned glass. Garnish with a cherry, if desired.

As you see from the recipe above, if the grenadine is replaced with an orange twist, you’ve got an Old Fashioned. What I find most interesting about this drink, though, is that it beautifully illustrates the difference that real pomegranate grenadine can make in a cocktail.

My first try at a Gall Bracer was pretty uninspiring. I used store-bought grenadine, and the drink basically tasted like an Old Fashioned with a funky, chemically sort of undertone in place of the sparkle that the orange zest brings to the game, and while I didn’t toss the cocktail into the sink, nor did I feel inclined to have another.

Fast forward a couple of months, and I’m paging through my little recipe notebook looking for something appealing that contains grenadine. I had just finished putting together a small batch of homemade grenadine, you see, and I was eager to try it out in a cocktail. I ran across the Gall Bracer, and decided to give it another shot.

Wow! What a difference this one change made… In place of the nasty chemistry set taste of my first attempt, I instead had a perfectly respectable alternative to my dear Old Fashioned, one that married the tang of fresh pomegranate to the bourbon in place of the citrus notes of my standard cocktail.

Make your own grenadine, and you’ll never buy a bottle of that nasty red stuff at your local supermarket again.

Grenadine

16 oz. POM Wonderful 100% pure pomegranate juice

8 oz. sugar

Splash of vodka or grain alcohol (as a preservative)

Heat pomegranate juice in a saucepan until boiling, add sugar and stir to dissolve. Lower to a simmer and let reduce by half, about 40 minutes. Let cool and add a splash of vodka or grain alcohol as a preservative. Should keep for months, but it’s so good that you probably won’t need to worry about shelf life…

Update - The above post is about a year old, and since writing it I've found a homemade grenadine recipe that I like even better. I take equal parts pomegranate juice and sugar and shake them together until the sugar dissolves, then add a healthy splash of pomegranate concentrate.

You can find pomegranate concentrate in some health food stores and ethnic markets, or click here to buy some from Amazon.

The Weeski Cocktail

A quick one today – the unfortunately named

Weeski Cocktail
Created by Dave Wondrich
2 oz. Irish whiskey
1 oz. Lillet
1 tsp. Cointreau
2 dashes orange bitters

Stir with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist, or do as I do and twist an orange peel over the drink and discard (see below).

I like to add a dash of Fee Brother’s peach bitters and twist a strip of orange peel over the surface of the drink to release the oils, then run the peel along the rim of the glass to deposit some more of those lovely oils before discarding it.

I used Paddy Irish whiskey and Regan’s orange bitters, and as such this is a fantastic cocktail. Bushmills is my regular sipping Irish, and the Weeski is a great drink with that too, but I think the Paddy really pushes it over the edge into classic territory. I still prefer Bushmills for sipping neat, however.

I’ve been mostly unimpressed with previous Irish whiskey cocktails I’ve tried – even the good ones leave me thinking that I’d prefer to just drink the whiskey neat. The Weeski is the first to change that position. I could happily drink this any time. I can even forgive it for being named "Weeski..."

Happy Birthday Campari

I recently found out that Campari is celebrating it’s 150th anniversary this year. The bitter, bright red liqueur is one of my favorites, and one of those indispensable products that every bar and home should stock.

Just about everyone remembers their first taste of Campari. For a lot of folks, the first taste also winds up being the last taste… The bitter flavor of Campari is too big of a hurdle for them to clear. These folks are making a mistake, and missing out on a great product which features in some delicious cocktails. Yes, Campari is, for most people, an acquired taste, but I think you’ll find it’s one worth acquiring.

The Negroni
1 oz. Campari
1 oz. sweet vermouth
1 oz. gin

Build over ice in a rocks glass and garnish with an orange wheel or a twist. A dash or two of orange bitters makes for a pleasant variation.

The Negroni is arguably the most popular Campari cocktail out there (disregarding for the moment such simple preparations as Campari & Soda or Campari & Orange), and for good reason. It’s a perfect drink, balanced, adult and delicious, as well as being easily adjusted to suit one’s taste. For me, the classic equal proportions work best.

The Americano
1 ½ oz. Campari
1 ½ oz. sweet vermouth
3 oz. soda water

Build over ice and top with soda water. Garnish with an orange wheel.

This is the drink the Negroni was based on – Count Oliver Pascal Negroni preferred gin to soda in his Americano, and thus a cocktail was born.

The Boulevardier
1 oz. bourbon
1 oz. Campari
1 oz. sweet vermouth

Stir with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

The Boulevardier, interestingly enough, actually predates the Negroni by a couple of decades. The drink was first published in Barflies and Cocktails in 1927, and resurrected by Ted “Dr. Cocktail” Haigh in his Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails.

The Jasmine
1 ½ oz. gin
1 oz. Cointreau
¾ oz. Campari
½ oz. freshly-squeezed lemon juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

The Jasmine is a great drink to introduce people to Campari. The sweetness of the Cointreau and the tartness of the lemon juice help to temper the Campari’s bitterness, and the botanicals in the gin combine with the other ingredients to produce a pretty good imitation of grapefruit juice.

The Bitter Elder
1 ½ oz. gin
½ oz. Campari
½ oz. freshly-squeezed lemon juice
¾ oz. St. Germain

Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist, or with a cherry blossom or other edible flower.

This is a recent concoction pairing Campari with the ubiquitous St. Germain elderflower liqueur. It’s light and floral, which I like to accentuate by using a flower garnish.

Now go out and buy yourself a bottle of Campari, and raise a few glasses tonight in honor of 150 years of excellence.

The Embassy Cocktail

I found this one over at Dr. Bamboo’s blog, and thought it was tasty enough to reproduce here. I like drinks that use equal amounts of each ingredient, especially later in the evening...

The Embassy

¾ oz. brandy
¾ oz. Cointreau
¾ oz. Jamaican rum
¾ oz. lime juice
dash of Angostura bitters

Shake and strain, garnish with a lime twist.

The Embassy follows the standard 2:1:1 sour template, only it uses two base spirits instead of one, and adds a dash of bitters. This is a good one – tart and refreshing, with a nice boozy kick and a pleasant spicy undertone courtesy of the bitters.

The Czarine Cocktail

Vodka, the most popular spirit in the United States, is usually (and rightly) maligned by serious cocktailians. The problem most of us booze-nerds have with vodka is that, in it’s pure expression, it is intended to have no flavor. None. Zip. Nothing. The ideal vodka would be 40% - 50% absolutely pure alcohol diluted with absolutely pure water.

In reality, absolutely pure alcohol and water are impossible to manufacture, so vodkas do taste slightly different from one another, but really, isn’t “nothing,” kind of boring as an ideal? Especially to a segment of the population that enjoys things like barrel proof whiskeys, smoky, peaty single-malt Scotch, and Fernet Branca sipped neat?

Vodka does have a role to play in the creation of serious cocktails, and it’s a role that no other spirit can play. Vodka works to soften and mellow the intense flavors of other ingredients while maintaining the alcoholic content, and thus the flavor and impact, of the drink.

I’ll be the first to agree that most vodka cocktails are uninteresting in the extreme. A Screwdriver tastes like alcoholic orange juice, a Greyhound like grapefruit juice, and don’t get me started on vodka “Martinis.” There are a few interesting drinks that use vodka as the base spirit, and this is one of them.

The Czarine
From Food & Wine Cocktails 2010

1 ½ oz. cold vodka (From the freezer – I used Absolut)
½ oz. dry vermouth (I used Dolin – Noilly Prat also works well)
2 ½ tsp. apricot brandy (Marie Brizard Apry)
dash Angostura bitters

Stir with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

This is a drink that uses vodka properly. It mellows the intense flavor and sweetness of the apricot brandy, and the vermouth and bitters add a complexity without being overbearing. This would make a nice aperitif, or serve as a refresher on a hot day.

The Morning Cocktail

For my introductory post, I figured I'd minimize all the getting-to-know-you junk and get right down to a drink (Kind of like meeting a girl in a dive bar, no?).

When they were first introduced, cocktails were morning drinks. You'd have one or two (or four or five) before breakfast in order to get over what you were drinking the night before. While this didn't do much for the cocktail's reputation in those early days - we're talking late 18th century here - there are still a few drinks that lend themselves, either by composition or by name, to early in the day imbibing. The Bloody Mary is probably the most popular morning-after libation, but there are others...

This is one of them - The Morning Cocktail (recipe from cocktaildb.com)

1 oz. brandy (I used cognac)
3/4 oz. dry vermouth
1/4 oz. curacao
1/4 oz. maraschino liqueur
1/4 oz. pastis (or absinthe - I used a pre-1975 bottle of Pernod, back when it was 86-proof and quite a bit tastier)
2 dashes orange bitters

Stir and strain into a cocktail glass. No garnish is needed, because this drink is complicated enough for someone with a hangover to put together without messing about with a channel knife, but an orange or lemon twist would likely work well.

With these proportions, this drink is a little too sweet for my taste, and the next time I make it I'll likely cut back on the maraschino and curacao, and substitute a real absinthe for the pastis, which should result in a drier and more agreeable drink. I don't think this will do much as a curative, but it's a pleasant enough drink in it's own right.