Vodka, the most popular spirit in the United States, is usually (and rightly) maligned by serious cocktailians. The problem most of us booze-nerds have with vodka is that, in it’s pure expression, it is intended to have no flavor. None. Zip. Nothing. The ideal vodka would be 40% - 50% absolutely pure alcohol diluted with absolutely pure water.
In reality, absolutely pure alcohol and water are impossible to manufacture, so vodkas do taste slightly different from one another, but really, isn’t “nothing,” kind of boring as an ideal? Especially to a segment of the population that enjoys things like barrel proof whiskeys, smoky, peaty single-malt Scotch, and Fernet Branca sipped neat?
Vodka does have a role to play in the creation of serious cocktails, and it’s a role that no other spirit can play. Vodka works to soften and mellow the intense flavors of other ingredients while maintaining the alcoholic content, and thus the flavor and impact, of the drink.
I’ll be the first to agree that most vodka cocktails are uninteresting in the extreme. A Screwdriver tastes like alcoholic orange juice, a Greyhound like grapefruit juice, and don’t get me started on vodka “Martinis.” There are a few interesting drinks that use vodka as the base spirit, and this is one of them.
The Czarine
From Food & Wine Cocktails 2010
1 ½ oz. cold vodka (From the freezer – I used Absolut)
½ oz. dry vermouth (I used Dolin – Noilly Prat also works well)
2 ½ tsp. apricot brandy (Marie Brizard Apry)
dash Angostura bitters
Stir with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
This is a drink that uses vodka properly. It mellows the intense flavor and sweetness of the apricot brandy, and the vermouth and bitters add a complexity without being overbearing. This would make a nice aperitif, or serve as a refresher on a hot day.
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